Discover your best KiwiSaver options with investly.

Speak to an adviser or explore one of our KiwiSaver tools.

Book a Free KiwiSaver Review

Together we will compare your current KiwiSaver to the rest of the market and see if you are in the right place to maximise your KiwiSaver.

What's included in your review

Current KiwiSaver Fund Review

We'll check the fund and provider you're in right now against your goals and timeframe, and tell you straight whether it's still the right fit.

Contribution Rate Review

We'll check whether your current contribution rate matches your goals and timeframe, and tell you if it's worth adjusting.

Full Market Comparison

We're fully independent — no bias, and no obligation to recommend any single provider. You can trust that we compare the whole market to find the provider and fund that genuinely fit you.

Personalised Recommendation

After our review we'll make you a personalised recommendation based on our findings, so you'll understand whether you're in the right place or not.

Did you know

New Zealanders who receive professional financial advice hold, on average, over 50% more in their KiwiSaver accounts than those who don't.

Source: Financial Services Council, Money & You research (2020), which found advised New Zealanders held around 52% more in their KiwiSaver accounts. This reflects an association observed in the research — commonly linked to being in a fund suited to your timeframe, contributing consistently, and staying invested through market ups and downs.

Our partners

We're partnered with New Zealand's leading KiwiSaver providers.

Investly is a subsidiary of Certus Financial Group and a proud member of the Wealthpoint network, which holds the Financial Advice Provider license.

Home/KiwiSaver Projection Calculator

KiwiSaver Projection Tool

See how fund type changes the picture.

Choosing the right type of fund usually matters more than choosing the right provider. Pick a fund type to see how it behaves — and what a difference it can make by 65.

Risk indicator shown 1–5, in line with how KiwiSaver funds report risk. Higher potential returns come with bigger falls along the way.

Assumed returns are Morningstar KiwiSaver Survey 10-year annualised category averages (June 2025 quarter): Conservative 4.1%, Balanced 6.4%, Growth 7.8%, Aggressive 8.6%. Past performance does not guarantee future returns.

Project your balance at 65

Projected balance at 65
$0
Your money in$0
Employer + govt$0
Investment growth$0

Illustration only, not advice. The return is an assumption, not a forecast — real returns vary year to year and can be negative. Figures are in future dollars and are not adjusted for inflation. Fees and investment tax (PIE tax) are not deducted.

What each fund type actually holds

Funds are grouped by how much they hold in "growth assets" (shares and property) versus "income assets" (cash and bonds). More growth assets means more potential upside, and bigger falls along the way.

Conservative

Suits a 2–5 year timeframe

Around 10–35% growth assets. Mostly cash and bonds, with a small amount in shares. Built to move around less, at the cost of lower long-term growth.

Balanced

Suits a 5–10 year timeframe

Around 35–63% growth assets. A genuine middle ground — enough shares to grow, enough cash and bonds to soften the falls.

Growth

Suits an 8–15 year timeframe

Around 63–90% growth assets. Mostly shares and property. Aimed at long horizons, with real falls expected in bad years.

Aggressive

Suits a 10+ year timeframe

Around 90–100% growth assets. Almost entirely shares. The highest long-run potential, and the biggest drops along the way.

Growth-asset ranges are based on Sorted's KiwiSaver fund categories. Some providers vary their mix depending on market conditions, so a fund can occasionally shift between categories.

Not sure you're in the right fund?

With so many different fund types to choose from, it's easy to feel unsure which one is right for you. Book a free review with a KiwiSaver adviser and they'll help you find out.

Speak to an adviser

Home/KiwiSaver Guides

KiwiSaver guides

What is KiwiSaver

Start here: how the scheme works, who's eligible to join, where your contributions come from, and the rules for getting your money out.

Read the guide →

KiwiSaver Contribution Rates

The rates you can choose from, how employer matching adds to what you put in, the tax taken off each contribution, and how to pick the right rate.

Read the guide →

Government KiwiSaver Contribution

The annual government top-up of up to $260.72: who's eligible, how much you need to contribute to claim the full amount, and when it's paid.

Read the guide →

Best Performing KiwiSaver

Why last year's top performer is the wrong thing to chase, and the factors that actually matter when you're comparing and choosing a fund.

Read the guide →

How to Change KiwiSaver Providers

The switch explained step by step: how to start it, how long it takes, whether it costs anything, and what your employer needs to know.

Read the guide →

KiwiSaver for First Home

Using KiwiSaver for a first-home deposit: who qualifies, how much you can withdraw, the steps involved, and the fund-type mistake to avoid beforehand.

Read the guide →

KiwiSaver Withdrawal

What KiwiSaver is designed for, and every situation — from hardship to retirement — where you're allowed to access your savings early.

Read the guide →

Active vs Passive Fund Management

The difference between paying a manager to beat the market and simply tracking it cheaply, what the evidence says about each, and how much it should weigh on your choice.

Read the guide →

Still have a question?

Book a free review with one of our advisers. They can answer any question you have directly.

Speak to an adviser

Home/About Us

About Us

Our Goal

Investly is a KiwiSaver Advice and Services company with a goal to help Kiwis make smart KiwiSaver decisions to maximise their saving.

Whether you'd like to speak with an adviser and get a free personalised recommendation, or explore the tools and figure it out yourself — we're here to help.

What We do

Our Services

However you like to work, we are here to help.

KiwiSaver Advice

Talk to one of our advisers and get a free, personalised recommendation based on your goals and timeframe.

Book a Free KiwiSaver Review

KiwiSaver Fund Comparison Tools

Prefer to do your own research first? Compare returns and fees, and run the numbers yourself with our free tools.

Explore the Tools

The team

Meet the team

You get the same adviser from the first call through to your annual review. No call centre, no handoffs.

ZF

Zakk Finlay

Founder & Financial Adviser

BW

Brendon White

Director & Financial Adviser

CR

Chloe Robertson

Director & Financial Adviser

Talk to us →

Our partners

We're partnered with New Zealand's leading KiwiSaver providers.

Investly is a subsidiary of Certus Financial Group and a proud member of the Wealthpoint network, which holds the Financial Advice Provider license.

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Book Your Free KiwiSaver Review

Send us your details and one of our expert KiwiSaver advisers will be in touch within one working day — free of charge, with no obligation.

Contact us

However suits you.

Fill in the form and we'll come back to you, or email us directly. Either way you'll speak to an adviser, not a queue.

Serving clients across Aotearoa, by phone or video

We'll only use your details to contact you about KiwiSaver advice. See our privacy policy.

Thanks — we've got it.

An adviser will be in touch within one working day to book your 20-minute review.

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Disclosure statement

Scope of Advice

Investly is a subsidiary of Certus Financial Group. Wealthpoint Limited (FSP678011) holds a financial advice provider licence issued by the FMA to provide financial advice services. Our advisers are engaged directly by Investly and provide financial advice under that licence.

Investly advisers provide financial advice on the following types of products:

  • General insurance
  • Life, trauma, health, and travel insurance
  • KiwiSaver
  • Home and business loans
  • Investments in certain retail financial products

Some Investly advisers provide financial advice on a wide range of financial products and some will provide advice on certain products only. More information can be found about our advisers on our about page.

Commissions, Fees and Conflicts

Product providers may pay Investly a commission for any business that is written. This commission may be based on a percentage of the annual premium, value of mortgage, or value of contract.

This commission is paid to Investly who has an agreement with the product provider to distribute their financial products.

Investly on-pays the commission received to the relevant member business whilst retaining a portion of the commission. Investly may also pay the relevant member business rebates on a periodic basis.

The amount of commission paid and whether there are ongoing commission payments will depend on the specific financial provider and type of financial product.

Investly advisers are paid by their relevant member business and may receive bonuses depending on the amount and value of financial products they distribute.

Investly advisers may receive subsidised professional development training from financial providers.

Investly and its member businesses may receive payments from product suppliers and financial platform providers for the amount of business placed with them.

Investly may receive funding from suppliers to market and contribute at periodic conferences.

Clients may pay fees for services provided by Investly advisers and such fees will be disclosed in advance to clients.

Clients may also pay third-party fees as a result of recommended investments which may include fund manager fees, fund administration fees, performance fees and transactional fees. These fees will be disclosed to clients.

To ensure Investly advisers prioritise the client's interests above their own, Investly advisers follow an advice process that ensures recommendations are made on the basis of the client's goals and circumstances. All Investly advisers are regulated by the FMA and are subject to a quality assurance process for compliance purposes.

Complaints

If you are not satisfied with the financial advice service received by an Investly adviser, you can make a complaint to that financial adviser through the contact details they have provided to you, or by emailing adviser@investly.co.nz.

When an Investly adviser receives a complaint, they are obliged to consider it following the Investly complaints process. This includes:

  • Letting you know how they intend to resolve the complaint. The Investly adviser may contact you to obtain further information about your complaint.
  • Aiming to resolve complaints within 10 working days of receiving them. If that is not possible, the Investly adviser will contact you within that time to let you know they need more time to consider your complaint.
  • Contacting you by phone or email to let you know whether the adviser can resolve your complaint and how they propose to do so. If your complaint cannot be resolved, or you aren't satisfied with the way proposed to do so, you can contact IFSO.

IFSO provides a free, independent dispute resolution service that may help investigate or resolve your complaint, if your complaint has not been resolved to your satisfaction. You can contact IFSO by emailing info@ifso.nz or by calling 0800 888 202, you can also write to them at:

Insurance & Financial Services Ombudsman Scheme
PO Box 10-845, Wellington 6143, New Zealand

Our Duties

Under the Financial Markets Conduct Act, Investly and Investly advisers are bound to:

  • give priority to client's interests
  • exercise care, diligence and skill
  • meet standards of competence, knowledge and skill set by the Code of Professional Conduct
  • meet standards of ethical behaviour, conduct and client care set by the Code of Professional Conduct

Investly and its advisers operate high standards of professionalism and are focused on the delivery of high quality advice to all clients.

Contact

Investly Limited
161C Marua Road, Mount Wellington, Auckland
adviser@investly.co.nz

Home/Privacy policy

Privacy policy

Our commitment to your privacy

Your privacy on the Internet is important to us. We respect your right to privacy and your right to view and update the personal information which we hold about you. We are committed to protecting your privacy when you visit our sites or contact us in any way.

We will only deal with your personal information in accordance with the Privacy Act 2020 and this privacy policy.

Information

We gather various information about customers and users of our website. This information includes:

  • personal information that you have provided in order to request information (such as requesting policy information or requesting that an adviser contact you);
  • personal information that you have provided in order for us to take action on your behalf (such as requesting a change of address);
  • information collected by us through click-tracking in relation to your use of the website, including the content you upload and the content you access;
  • aggregated data, which tracks traffic to the website; and
  • cookies, which are pieces of information transferred to your computer hard drive for record keeping (such as your preferences on our website).

Security

We are committed to ensuring that your information is secure. In order to prevent unauthorised access or disclosure, we have put in place suitable physical, electronic, and managerial procedures to safeguard and secure the information we collect either face-to-face or online.

Disclosing your personal information

We will not sell or rent your personal information to any third party. We do however share your contact information with trusted third parties that work on our behalf to distribute our email or print communications.

These companies will only use your personal information in accordance with the Privacy Act, and this privacy policy, and will never share or on-sell any information that they hold on behalf of Investly.

Cookies

Cookies are small pieces of information that are stored on your computer's hard drive when you use our website. Cookies help us provide you with a better website, by enabling us to monitor which pages you find useful and which you do not. This helps us analyse data about web page traffic and improve our website to tailor it to our customers' needs. A cookie does not give us access to your computer or any information about you other than the data you choose to share with us.

You can choose to accept or decline cookies. Most web browsers automatically accept cookies, but you can usually modify your browser setting to decline cookies if you prefer. However, if you do this it may prevent you from taking full advantage of our website.

Third party cookies and other technologies: we use third party cookies and other technologies for marketing purposes and to gather website analytics. This includes:

  • Remarketing: we use third party cookies — such as Google Analytics cookies — to keep track of the reports or pages you're interested in and remarket them to you when you leave our site (as a result, you may see ads from Investly when you visit other websites).
  • Impression reporting: we use web beacons to estimate the number of users that have viewed and clicked on our pages or promotions, and as a result we're able to gauge the success of a campaign.
  • Demographics and interest reporting: we use cookies and web beacons to get an overview of our readership broken down by age, gender and interests, and as a result we can provide you with relevant information, services, and features, plus gauge the popularity of our content.

You can opt out of Google Analytics without affecting how you visit our site. For more information on opting out of being tracked by Google Analytics, please visit the Google Analytics opt-out page.

Other information we collect

We collect and use additional information to carry out internal research on our users' demographics, interests, and behaviour to better understand and serve you and our community. This information may include the URL that you just came from (whether this URL is on our site or not), which URL you next go to (whether this URL is on our site or not), what browser you are using, and your IP address.

If you post on our site, or on social media, about us or your experience with us, we may collect that information for the purposes of improving our service and the end-user experience.

Sometimes, we might want to use the messages you post about Investly in our articles or marketing material. If so, we will get your permission before copying or quoting your message or comment.

Links to other websites

Our website may contain links to enable you to easily visit other websites of interest. However, once you have used these links to leave our site, you should note that we do not have any control over that other website. We do not endorse any third-party websites or their content, and we have no control over the conduct of the companies or organisations operating those sites.

Before you disclose any personal information to another site, we advise you to check its terms and conditions, including its privacy and security policies.

Updates to our information practices

We reserve the right to change this policy at any time and without notice. By continuing to use the website, you agree to be bound by the privacy policy current at that time. You should check from time to time to see if the policy has changed.

Complaints

Investly is committed to dealing quickly and appropriately with any complaint you make about your privacy.

If you are concerned that this privacy policy may have been breached or your privacy has been compromised, please email us immediately at adviser@investly.co.nz.

For more information on privacy, see the Privacy Commissioner's website.

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Lodge a Complaint

What you should do if you have a problem, concern or complaint

If you have a problem, concern or complaint about any part of our service, please tell us so we can try and resolve the issue.

In the first instance, please contact your adviser directly. If you are not completely satisfied with their response, complaints may also be made via:

If we cannot resolve it

If we cannot agree on how to fix the issue, or you decide not to use our internal complaints scheme, you can contact the independent body that manages disputes for our industry. Their service is free to you and independent of us.

The Insurance and Financial Services Ombudsman (IFSO)
Phone: 0800 888 202
Email: info@ifso.nz
Website: ifso.nz
PO Box 10 845, Wellington 6143

You can also contact the FMA

The Financial Markets Authority takes reports about the conduct of financial advice providers at fma.govt.nz.

Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Active vs passive

Active vs passive KiwiSaver funds

The difference in plain terms

A passive fund buys the whole market. It picks an index — the S&P/NZX 50 for New Zealand shares, say, or the S&P World Index for global ones — and holds everything in it, in the same proportions as the index itself. Nobody is deciding that one company looks cheap this quarter. If a company is in the index, the fund owns it. If the index changes, the fund follows.

An active fund tries to beat the market. A manager and their team research companies, hold more of the ones they believe will do well, avoid the ones they don't, and adjust as conditions change. The goal is to end up ahead of the index rather than matching it.

Put simply: a passive fund accepts the market return and keeps costs down. An active fund pays for the attempt to do better.

Why the fees differ

The gap in fees is not a pricing decision so much as a reflection of what each approach costs to run.

An active fund has people to pay

Analysts, portfolio managers, economists and traders all sit behind an actively managed fund. Someone has to research companies, visit them, model their earnings and decide what to buy. That salary bill is real, it recurs every year, and it is charged to the fund whether or not the decisions turn out well.

An active fund trades far more

Acting on a view means buying and selling. Every trade carries brokerage and the spread between buying and selling prices. A fund that turns over much of its portfolio each year pays those costs repeatedly. An index fund trades mainly when the index itself changes, or when money comes in and out.

A passive fund follows a rule

Once the index is chosen, the fund is largely mechanical. No research team, minimal trading, and the same process whether the fund holds $50 million or $5 billion — so the cost can be spread very thin.

In New Zealand this typically shows up as an annual fund charge of roughly 0.2% to 0.5% for a low-cost index fund, against roughly 0.9% to 1.5% for an actively managed one. The exact figures vary by provider and fund type, and your fund's charge is published in its quarterly fund update.

The whole debate comes down to one question: does the extra you pay for active management reliably buy you extra return?

The bit nobody mentions: "passive" funds still make active decisions

A fund can track an index perfectly and still have had a great many judgement calls made on your behalf:

  • Which index? Global developed markets, or global including emerging? That's a real bet.
  • How much in shares at all? The split between growth and income assets is an active choice, and it's the biggest driver of your outcome — see fund types explained.
  • Currency hedging. How much of the overseas exposure is hedged back to NZ dollars moves returns significantly, and it's a decision someone made.
  • Exclusions. Most "passive" KiwiSaver funds screen out weapons, tobacco and so on. That's a departure from the index, by choice.

So "passive vs active" isn't really a binary. It's a question of where you're paying for judgement, and whether that judgement is worth what it costs.

What about diversified funds like yours?

Most of the research you will see compares a single-asset fund — global shares, say — against the index it is meant to track. Your KiwiSaver fund is not that. A growth or balanced fund is diversified across shares, bonds and cash, in New Zealand and overseas, and that makes the question harder to answer than it first appears.

There is no single benchmark to test it against

Comparing a passive diversified fund with an active one is not really a test of stock picking. Most of the gap between any two diversified funds comes from how much each holds in growth assets and how much of the overseas exposure is hedged back to New Zealand dollars. Those are asset allocation decisions, and as covered above, the passive fund made them too.

What the research does show

Internationally, Morningstar's Active/Passive Barometer covers allocation funds as well as single-asset ones. Its most consistent finding is about cost rather than style: over the ten years to June 2025, funds in the cheapest quintile succeeded roughly twice as often as those in the most expensive. Success rates also varied a great deal by category, which is why blanket statements tend to fall over.

In New Zealand the picture cuts both ways. FMA data indicates that most active KiwiSaver funds have underperformed their passive benchmarks after fees over five and ten year periods. At the same time, the quarterly Melville Jessup Weaver survey — the standard reference for KiwiSaver fund performance here — regularly has actively managed funds among the top-ranked diversified funds over ten years, and Morningstar has noted a mix of active and passive funds performing strongly against their peers.

Why the ranking tables mislead

Those surveys group funds into categories such as growth or balanced, but the funds inside a category are not identical. One growth fund might hold 85% in growth assets and another 75%. In a rising market the first will finish above the second almost regardless of how it is managed. A good deal of what looks like manager skill in a performance table is really a different risk setting — and funds that closed along the way are no longer in the table at all.

Where that leaves it

The fee argument still holds, because it is arithmetic rather than opinion: a fund charging 0.9% more has to out-earn that gap every single year just to draw level. But for diversified funds specifically, the evidence is less clear-cut than it is for global share funds, and it would be overstating things to say the debate is closed.

The genuinely hard part is unchanged. Some active managers do beat their peers over long periods. Identifying which ones will do it in future, rather than which ones did it in the past, is the part nobody has solved.

How to tell what you're actually in

  1. Find your fund's quarterly fund update or Product Disclosure Statement — every KiwiSaver fund publishes both, and Smart Investor (smartinvestor.sorted.org.nz) has them all.
  2. Look at the total annual fund charge, as a percentage. That's the number that compounds against you.
  3. Read how the fund describes its approach. Words like "index", "passive" or "tracks" point one way; "our investment team selects" points the other.
  4. Check whether the fee is buying you something you actually want. A higher fee for a genuinely differentiated responsible-investment mandate is a decision you can make on purpose. A higher fee for closet index-tracking is not.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules and data change; figures shown are illustrations, not forecasts.

Want to know what you're actually paying?

We'll pull the fees and the approach behind your current fund, compare them across the whole market, and tell you plainly whether it's worth what it costs. Free of charge.

Get a KiwiSaver recommendation

More questions on this and every other part of KiwiSaver are answered on our FAQs page.

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KiwiSaver Frequently Asked Questions

Home/FAQs/How to Change KiwiSaver Providers

How to Change KiwiSaver Providers

The process, start to finish

1. Choose your new provider and fund

This is the part worth spending real time on — comparing fees, fund type, and performance across the whole market rather than just moving to whatever your bank offers.

2. Apply directly with the new provider

You apply directly to the provider of the scheme you want to join. Most providers now do this online, and you'll usually just need your IRD number and a valid NZ ID, with the form taking less than 10 minutes to complete.

3. Your new provider handles the rest

This is the part people often don't realise: there's no need to contact your current provider — your new provider handles the transfer for you. Behind the scenes, your new provider arranges the transfer of your savings from your old scheme to the new one, and Inland Revenue is notified so your contributions start being routed to the new provider going forward.

4. Wait for the balance to transfer

The process takes about two weeks, though some providers quote up to 2–3 weeks. You'll typically get a notification once it's done.

Other common questions about switching

How long does it take to switch KiwiSaver providers?

Usually a few weeks from applying to the new provider until the balance lands. The two schemes handle it between them; there is nothing for you to chase.

Does it cost anything to switch KiwiSaver providers?

Providers do not charge a transfer or exit fee. Your money is briefly out of the market during the transfer, which can help or hurt by a small amount depending on what markets do that week.

Do I need to tell my employer if I switch KiwiSaver?

Usually not. Contributions are deducted from your pay and routed by Inland Revenue to whichever scheme you belong to, so the change flows through without your employer doing anything.

Can I be in two KiwiSaver schemes at once?

No. You can only belong to one KiwiSaver scheme at a time, so joining a new one automatically closes the old one.

Will I lose my employer or government contributions if I switch?

No. Employer contributions continue as long as you keep contributing from your pay, and the government contribution is based on what you contributed over the year regardless of which scheme held it.

Not sure which provider to switch to?

An adviser can compare the whole market with you and explain which one fits your situation.

Book a free review

Home/FAQs/KiwiSaver Contribution Rates

KiwiSaver Contribution Rates

How KiwiSaver contributions work

KiwiSaver is made up of money from three different sources:

  • You contribute money from your pay.
  • Your employer contributes money as well.
  • The Government may add extra money to your KiwiSaver account.

1. Your contributions

Your contribution is taken directly from your pay and paid into your KiwiSaver account.

Since 1 April 2026, the standard contribution rate is 3.5% of your pay before tax. You can also choose to contribute 4%, 6%, 8% or 10%.

For example, if you earn $1,000 before tax and contribute 3.5%, $35 will go into KiwiSaver.

If 3.5% is more than you can afford, you can apply through myIR to temporarily reduce your contribution rate to 3%. This reduction lasts between three and twelve months and can be renewed.

2. Your employer's contributions

Your employer must also contribute at least 3.5% of your pay to your KiwiSaver account.

For example, if you contribute 3.5%, your employer will generally contribute another 3.5%.

If you choose to contribute more — for example, 8% — your employer does not have to increase their contribution. They can continue contributing 3.5%, although some employers choose to contribute more.

Your employer's contribution is taxed before it is added to your KiwiSaver account, so the amount you receive will be slightly less than 3.5%.

3. The Government contribution

The Government can also add money to your KiwiSaver account.

For every $1 you contribute, the Government adds 25 cents, up to a maximum of $260.72 each year.

To receive the full $260.72, you need to contribute about $1,043 of your own money during the KiwiSaver year, which runs from 1 July to 30 June.

You won't receive the Government contribution if your annual income is $180,000 or more.

What happens to the money

You don't have to do anything to get your contributions invested. Every payment — yours, your employer's and the government's — flows automatically into the KiwiSaver fund you're in, buying units at that day's unit price.

From there it stays invested on your behalf. Your provider manages the underlying mix of shares, bonds, property and cash that makes up your fund, and any returns are reinvested rather than paid out, so your balance compounds over time.

If you've never actively chosen a fund, you'll usually have been placed in your provider's default fund, or one based on your age. That fund keeps receiving and investing every contribution until you switch — so it's worth making sure the one you're in actually suits your timeframe.

Common questions about contribution rates

What is the KiwiSaver contribution rate in 2026?

Since 1 April 2026 the default employee rate is 3.5% of before-tax pay, and employers must match at a minimum of 3.5%. Both rise to 4% on 1 April 2028.

Can I still contribute 3% to KiwiSaver?

Yes, by applying to Inland Revenue through myIR for a temporary rate reduction. It lasts between three and twelve months and can be renewed. It is not available if you have an active savings suspension.

How much should I contribute to KiwiSaver?

At a minimum, enough to earn the full government contribution — roughly $1,043 of your own money over the year. Beyond that, the right rate depends on your other goals; higher rates are not matched by your employer above the 3.5% minimum.

Does my employer match whatever I contribute?

Only up to the 3.5% minimum. If you contribute 8%, your employer still only has to contribute 3.5%, though some choose to pay more.

What tax is paid on KiwiSaver contributions?

Your own contributions come out of your take-home pay, so they have already been taxed and nothing further is deducted. Your employer's contributions are taxed before they reach your account under employer superannuation contribution tax (ESCT), at a rate set by your salary plus those contributions. Once the money is invested, the returns are taxed at your prescribed investor rate — worth checking, because an out-of-date rate is one of the more common and costly KiwiSaver mistakes.

Not sure what contribution rate to choose?

An adviser can talk through what your pay, your goals and your timeframe mean for the rate you're on.

Book a free review

Home/FAQs/KiwiSaver Withdrawal

KiwiSaver Withdrawal

What KiwiSaver is designed for

KiwiSaver is a long-term savings scheme, not a savings account. Once money goes in, it is locked away and you cannot take it out whenever you want.

It is built around two main goals:

  • Saving for your retirement.
  • Helping you buy your first home.

There are also a few situations where you can take your money out early, but each one has its own rules and has to be approved before any money is released.

When you can withdraw your KiwiSaver

1. When you turn 65

This is what KiwiSaver is designed for. At 65 you can withdraw as much or as little as you like — a lump sum, regular payments, or nothing at all.

There is no deadline and no requirement to take the money out. Many people leave some of it invested and draw on it over time.

For most people, turning 65 is the only test. The exception is people who joined KiwiSaver before 1 July 2019 while aged between 60 and 64, who may also need five years of membership.

You can keep contributing after 65, but you no longer receive the government contribution.

2. To buy your first home

You can withdraw your KiwiSaver to help buy your first home once you have been a member for at least three years.

You can take out almost everything — your own contributions, your employer's contributions, the government contributions and the investment returns. At least $1,000 must stay in the account.

The property must be in New Zealand and you must intend to live in it. You cannot use KiwiSaver to buy an investment property, and you can only make a first home withdrawal once.

If you have owned a home before, you may still qualify if Kāinga Ora decides you are in the same financial position as a first home buyer.

3. Significant financial hardship

You can apply if you are struggling to meet basic living costs — for example, you cannot pay your mortgage or rent, or you need to cover medical or funeral costs.

You apply through your provider and supply evidence, and their supervisor decides. It is treated as a last resort, and you are usually limited to your own and your employer's contributions rather than the full balance.

4. Serious illness

You can apply if you have a condition that permanently affects your ability to work, or an illness that is likely to shorten your life.

This is assessed separately from financial hardship and needs medical evidence, but if approved you can generally withdraw your full balance.

5. Moving overseas permanently

If you move overseas permanently, you can usually withdraw your savings once you have been away for at least a year. Any government contributions have to be paid back.

This does not apply if you move to Australia. In that case your KiwiSaver stays put, or you can transfer it into an Australian scheme.

6. If you die

Your KiwiSaver balance becomes part of your estate. It is paid out according to your will, or under the standard rules if you do not have one.

Common questions about withdrawals

When can I withdraw my KiwiSaver?

At 65, provided you've also been a KiwiSaver member for at least five years. If you joined after age 60, the five-year test can push your eligibility date past 65 — for example, joining at 62 generally means waiting until 67.

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver for financial hardship?

Yes, but only in defined circumstances — being unable to meet minimum living costs or mortgage repayments, needing to modify a home for a disability, or covering medical or funeral costs with no other option. Your provider's supervisor decides based on evidence you provide, and it's generally treated as a last resort. If approved, you typically only get access to your own and your employer's contributions, not the government contributions.

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I'm seriously ill?

Yes, if you or a dependant meet the legal definition of serious illness — broadly, a condition that significantly affects your ability to work, or a terminal or life-shortening condition. This is assessed separately from a hardship withdrawal, with its own supervisor process and medical evidence requirements.

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I move overseas permanently?

Generally yes, once you've been living overseas permanently for at least a year — with one notable exception: this route isn't available if you've moved to Australia, since Australia has its own reciprocal retirement savings arrangements. Requirements can vary by provider, so it's worth confirming your specific situation before relying on it.

What happens to my KiwiSaver if I die?

It doesn't disappear and it isn't kept by the government. Your KiwiSaver balance forms part of your estate and is distributed according to your will, or under the intestacy rules if you don't have one.

Home/FAQs/Government KiwiSaver Contribution

Government KiwiSaver Contribution

What the government contribution is

The government contribution is money the government adds to your KiwiSaver account each year, on top of what you and your employer put in.

For every $1 you contribute, the government adds 25 cents, up to a maximum of $260.72 a year.

To receive the full amount you need to contribute $1,042.86 of your own money during the KiwiSaver year, which runs from 1 July to 30 June. That works out to about $20 a week.

If you contribute less than that, you still receive 25 cents for every dollar you did put in — you just get a smaller amount.

How to qualify

To receive the government contribution, you need to meet all of the following:

  • You are aged between 16 and 64.
  • You mainly live in New Zealand.
  • Your annual taxable income is $180,000 or less.
  • You contributed your own money to KiwiSaver during the year.

Only your own money counts. Contributions from your pay and voluntary top-ups both count, but your employer's contributions and last year's government contribution do not.

How and when it is paid

1. The year closes on 30 June

The KiwiSaver year runs from 1 July to 30 June. Anything you contribute after 30 June counts towards the following year.

2. Your provider claims it for you

You do not need to apply. Your provider works out what you are entitled to and claims it from Inland Revenue on your behalf.

3. The money arrives over July and August

Most payments land in late July, though they can take until the end of August. If it has not appeared by then, contact your provider.

A few things worth knowing

If you were only eligible for part of the year — because you joined KiwiSaver, turned 16, or turned 65 partway through — both the maximum you can receive and the amount you need to contribute are reduced to match.

If you are close to the threshold but not quite there, you can make a one-off voluntary payment before 30 June to top yourself up. It is worth checking your balance in June rather than assuming your pay deductions have covered it.

The government contribution changed on 1 July 2025. The maximum dropped from $521.43 to $260.72, the $180,000 income limit was introduced, and 16 and 17 year olds became eligible for the first time.

Common questions about the government contribution

How much is the KiwiSaver government contribution?

Up to $260.72 per year. The government pays 25 cents for every $1 you contribute, so you need to contribute about $1,043 of your own money over the KiwiSaver year to receive the full amount.

Who is not eligible for the government contribution?

People earning $180,000 or more, anyone under 16, people who do not mainly live in New Zealand, and anyone already eligible to withdraw their KiwiSaver.

When is the government contribution paid?

The KiwiSaver year runs from 1 July to 30 June. The payment is usually credited to your account a few weeks after the year ends.

Do employer contributions count towards the government contribution?

No. Only your own contributions count — whether deducted from your pay or paid in voluntarily.

Home/FAQs/What is KiwiSaver

What is KiwiSaver

Why KiwiSaver was set up

New Zealand already had a state pension. NZ Super is paid to almost everyone from age 65, funded from taxes, and it pays the same amount whether you saved during your working life or not.

The problem was that NZ Super was never designed to fund the retirement most people picture. By the early 2000s New Zealand had one of the lowest household savings rates in the developed world, most workers had no workplace savings scheme at all, and household wealth was heavily tied up in property. At the same time the population was ageing, which meant the cost of NZ Super was only going to rise.

KiwiSaver was the response. It was announced in the 2005 Budget by then Finance Minister Michael Cullen, passed into law as the KiwiSaver Act 2006, and opened to members on 1 July 2007.

How it was designed

The aim was to get people saving without making it compulsory, so the scheme was built around a few deliberate choices:

  • You are enrolled automatically when you start a new job, and have to actively opt out. Most people stay in simply because they do not get around to leaving.
  • Other people put money in alongside you. Employer contributions became compulsory in 2008, and the government adds its own contribution each year.
  • The money is locked away until 65, with a limited set of exceptions such as buying your first home.
  • Your savings are managed by private providers rather than a single government fund, so you choose who looks after your money and how it is invested.

How your money is invested

Once you're a member, you don't invest the money yourself. Your contributions, your employer's and the government's are paid into your account and automatically invested into whichever fund you hold with your provider — each payment buying into that fund at the current unit price.

Your provider then looks after the underlying investments — a mix of shares, bonds, property and cash that depends on the fund type you're in — and reinvests the returns, so your balance builds over time. You can log in to check your balance, but you never have to buy or sell anything yourself.

If you didn't choose a fund when you joined, you'll have been placed in a default fund, or one set by your age. It keeps investing every contribution automatically, which is convenient — but a default is rarely the best fit for everyone, so it's worth checking the fund you're in matches how long you have until you'll use the money.

How it has changed since 2007

KiwiSaver has been adjusted many times, usually by tightening the incentives:

  • Members originally received a $1,000 kickstart from the government when they joined. This was scrapped in 2015.
  • The annual government contribution was halved in 2011, and halved again from 1 July 2025 to a maximum of $260.72. An income limit of $180,000 was introduced at the same time, and 16 and 17 year olds became eligible.
  • The minimum employee contribution rate started at 4%, dropped to 2% in 2009, rose to 3% in 2013, and is 3.5% from 1 April 2026 and 4% from 1 April 2028.
  • Employer contributions started at 1% in 2008 and follow the same 3.5% and 4% steps.

Where it sits today

More than 3 million New Zealanders are now KiwiSaver members, and for many people it is the largest asset they own apart from a house.

It is still voluntary, and it still sits on top of NZ Super rather than replacing it. What the scheme does not decide for you is which provider you use, which fund you are in, or what rate you contribute at — and those choices make a considerable difference to what you end up with.

Still got a question?

Speak to an adviser directly. They can review your KiwiSaver and tell you where you stand — which provider and fund you're in, and how that compares.

Get a free KiwiSaver review

Home/FAQs/Best Performing KiwiSaver

Best Performing KiwiSaver

Why last year's winner is the wrong thing to look at

Past performance does not guarantee future returns. A fund that topped the table last year has told you what happened, not what will happen, and there is no rule that says it will do it again.

Fund managers each follow their own investment strategy — different mixes of shares, bonds and cash, different countries and industries, different views on when to take risk. Those strategies do not all suit the same conditions, so managers tend to take turns at the top.

A manager weighted towards global shares will look brilliant during a strong sharemarket run and poor in a downturn. A more conservative manager will look ordinary in the good years and hold up far better in the bad ones. Comparing them over a single year mostly tells you what markets did, not which manager is better.

This is why a one-year table is a weak basis for a decision. What matters more is the fund type you are in, how long your money has to grow, and whether the level of risk actually suits you.

For a full walk-through of how to weigh those up, read our guide on choosing the right KiwiSaver fund.

KiwiSaver Returns Comparison

See what each fund has actually returned after fees over one, three, five and ten years — a longer view that tells you far more than a single year in isolation.

View the comparison →

Common questions about fund performance

Which KiwiSaver fund has the best returns?

Whichever one took the most risk during a rising market — usually an aggressive fund. That tells you very little about the future. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance, and last year's top fund is often not the right fund for your timeframe.

Is a growth fund better than a balanced fund?

Not inherently. A growth fund has higher long-run potential and bigger falls along the way. It is better if you have ten or more years to run and would genuinely hold through a bad year. If a fall would push you to switch to cash, a balanced fund you can hold is the better outcome.

Do lower fees mean a better KiwiSaver fund?

Fees are one of the few things you can predict, so they matter — but they come second to being in the right fund type. A cheap defensive fund is a poor choice for someone with thirty years to run.

How often should I review my KiwiSaver fund?

Once a year, and whenever something changes — a new job, a house purchase moving from 'someday' to 'next year', a baby, a move overseas. The right fund is a function of your life, not of market news.

Not sure if you're in the right fund?

One of our expert KiwiSaver advisers can review the fund you're in and talk you through your options — the right move today could add thousands to your future.

Book a free review

Home/FAQs/KiwiSaver for First Home

KiwiSaver for First Home

Who can qualify

To use your KiwiSaver towards a first home, you need to meet all of the following:

  • You have been a member of KiwiSaver, or a complying superannuation fund, for at least three years. This is counted from when you joined, not from your first contribution.
  • You have never made a KiwiSaver first home withdrawal before. It can only be used once.
  • You have not owned property before, in New Zealand or overseas.
  • The property is in New Zealand.
  • You intend to live in it. You cannot use the withdrawal to buy an investment property.

If you have owned a home before, you may still qualify. Kāinga Ora can assess whether you are in the same financial position as a first home buyer — usually relevant after a separation or a significant financial setback. If they agree, they issue a letter you pass on to your provider.

How much you can take out

Almost all of it. You can withdraw your own contributions, your employer's contributions, the government contributions and all the investment returns on top.

Two things have to stay behind: $1,000, which keeps your account open, and anything transferred in from an Australian superannuation scheme. There is no upper limit on the rest.

How the withdrawal works

1. Check your dates and your provider

Confirm the exact date you joined KiwiSaver so you know when your three years is up. It is also worth checking that your provider offers first home withdrawals, as a small number do not.

2. Apply to Kāinga Ora first, if you have owned before

Previous home owners need a determination from Kāinga Ora before applying to their provider. Allow at least 20 working days for this.

3. Apply to your provider for pre-approval

Do this before you go unconditional, not after. Pre-approval tells you exactly how much you can withdraw, which is the figure your lender and your budget depend on.

4. Send in your documents

Your provider will want the sale and purchase agreement, your solicitor's details, and a statutory declaration. Your solicitor usually handles most of this with you.

5. The money goes to your solicitor

The funds are paid into your solicitor's trust account for settlement, not into your bank account. Allow a couple of weeks, and tell your solicitor early that KiwiSaver is part of your deposit.

The mistake worth avoiding

If you are buying within the next year or two, the fund you are in matters more than usual. A growth or aggressive fund can fall sharply in a bad year, and a fall shortly before settlement comes straight off your deposit.

Moving towards a conservative or defensive fund as the purchase gets close removes that risk. The trade-off is lower expected returns, which matters far less over a short timeframe than the chance of your deposit shrinking right when you need it.

Common questions about first home withdrawals

How long do I have to be in KiwiSaver before I can buy a first home?

At least three years of membership. It is measured from when you joined, not from when you started contributing.

How much of my KiwiSaver can I use for a first home?

Almost all of it. You must leave $1,000 in the account, and there is no upper limit on the amount you can withdraw.

Can I use KiwiSaver to buy an investment property?

No. The first home withdrawal is only available for a property you intend to live in.

Is the First Home Grant still available?

No. The First Home Grant closed to new applications on 22 May 2024 and has not been replaced with a direct equivalent. The KiwiSaver first home withdrawal and the Kāinga Ora First Home Loan are separate and still available.

Should I change my KiwiSaver fund before buying a first home?

Usually yes, as the purchase gets close. A growth or aggressive fund can fall sharply in a bad year, and a fall shortly before settlement directly reduces your deposit. Moving toward a conservative or defensive fund removes that risk.

Home/KiwiSaver Returns Comparison

KiwiSaver Returns Comparison

Returns to 30 June 2026, after fees and before tax.

Past returns do not guarantee future returns.

Past performance is only one part of the picture

Strong past returns don't guarantee future resultsA fund that performed well last year may not be the top performer next year. Markets change, and different investment styles perform better at different times.
Different investment strategies shine in different marketsWhether a fund is active or passive, growth-focused or more defensive, each approach has periods of stronger and weaker performance. Looking at returns over a longer timeframe provides a more balanced view.
Choose the right fund type firstSelecting a fund that matches your goals, investment timeframe, and comfort with risk is often more important than choosing between providers. Once you've found the right fund type, you can then compare providers based on fees, performance, service, and features.

Run the numbers

KiwiSaver Projection Calculator

Choosing the right type of fund usually matters more than choosing the right provider. Pick a fund type to see how it behaves — and what a difference it can make by 65.

Risk indicator shown 1–5, in line with how KiwiSaver funds report risk. Higher potential returns come with bigger falls along the way.

Assumed returns are Morningstar KiwiSaver Survey 10-year annualised category averages (June 2025 quarter): Conservative 4.1%, Balanced 6.4%, Growth 7.8%, Aggressive 8.6%. Past performance does not guarantee future returns.

Project your balance at 65

Projected balance at 65
$0
Your money in$0
Employer + govt$0
Investment growth$0

Illustration only, not advice. The return is an assumption, not a forecast — real returns vary year to year and can be negative. Figures are in future dollars and are not adjusted for inflation. Fees and investment tax (PIE tax) are not deducted.

Not sure you're in the right fund?

With so many different KiwiSaver providers and funds to choose from, it's not always easy to know which one is right for you. If you're still unsure, book a free review with one of our expert KiwiSaver advisers — a quick chat could add thousands to your future.

Speak to an adviser

Home/KiwiSaver Fees Comparison

KiwiSaver Fees Comparison

Annual fee is the Total Annual Fund Charge — the management fee plus estimated fund expenses, expressed as a percentage of your balance. Some providers also charge a small fixed member fee on top, billed in dollars rather than percent, which matters more on smaller balances.

Understanding the numbers

Why do fees vary so much?

Two similar funds can charge very different fees. Here's why, in plain English.

Active vs passive managementSome KiwiSaver funds have a team of people picking investments, aiming to beat the market — which costs more to manage. Other KiwiSaver providers simply follow a market index and don't actively pick individual stocks, which is why they can charge lower fees. Neither is "better," they're just different. Read more in active vs passive.
What the fund invests inConservative funds mostly hold cash and bonds, which are simple and cheap to manage. Growth and Aggressive funds hold more shares and overseas investments, which cost more to manage — so their fees are usually a bit higher too.
Hidden costsEven passive funds aren't completely free to run — they still pay small transaction costs each time they buy or sell shares to track the index. These usually aren't shown as a separate fee, but they quietly reduce the fund's return, so the number on this page isn't always the full picture.

Not sure you're in the right fund?

With so many different KiwiSaver providers and funds to choose from, it's not always easy to know which one is right for you. If you're still unsure, book a free review with one of our expert KiwiSaver advisers — a quick chat could add thousands to your future.

Speak to an adviser

Home/KiwiSaver Tools

KiwiSaver Fund Comparison Tools

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Home/KiwiSaver Guides/What is KiwiSaver

What is KiwiSaver?

A plain-English guide to how KiwiSaver actually works — who puts money in, how it's invested, and when you get it out. No jargon, no product pitch.

Short answer: KiwiSaver is a voluntary savings scheme that helps New Zealanders build money for retirement. You contribute a slice of your pay, your employer adds theirs on top, and the government chips in each year. The money is invested in a fund you choose and stays there until you turn 65 — with an early exit to help buy your first home.

The idea in one line

KiwiSaver launched in 2007 to make saving for retirement the easy default rather than something you have to organise yourself. Most people are enrolled through work and never think about it again — which is exactly the problem, because the fund you're put into by default is rarely the fund that suits you. Understanding the basics is what lets you fix that.

Who can join

Anyone who lives in New Zealand and is entitled to be here permanently can be a member — from a newborn to someone already retired. There are two ways in:

  • Automatically, through a job. When you start new employment as an employee, you're usually enrolled without doing anything. You then have a window between two and eight weeks to opt out if you don't want to be in.
  • Directly, by choice. If you're self-employed, not working, or under 18, you join by signing up with a provider yourself.

Where the money comes from

This is the part worth understanding, because three separate sources pay into your account:

  • You. A percentage of your before-tax pay — 3.5% by default in 2026, with higher options available. See contribution rates explained.
  • Your employer. If you're contributing from your wages, your employer adds their own contribution on top of your pay.
  • The government. An annual contribution of up to $260.72, paid once a year if you've contributed enough of your own money over the year. More detail on the government contribution.

The employer and government amounts are, in effect, money you only get by being in and contributing. Opting out or dropping your contributions to nothing leaves that money on the table.

How your savings are invested

Your contributions don't sit in a bank account — they're invested in a fund run by your provider. Funds range from defensive and conservative (steadier, lower long-run growth) through to growth and aggressive (bumpier ride, higher long-run potential). The right one depends mostly on how long until you'll spend the money, not on last year's returns.

This single choice matters more than almost anything else, and it's the one most people never make. Our guide to conservative vs balanced vs growth funds walks through how to pick.

When you can take it out

KiwiSaver is designed to stay invested until retirement, so access is deliberately limited:

  • At 65 — the main one. From then it's your money to withdraw as you like.
  • To buy your first home — you can usually withdraw most of your balance towards a first home. See using KiwiSaver for a first home.
  • In limited hardship situations — serious illness, significant financial hardship, or permanently emigrating.

How it's different from a savings account

Three things set it apart: other people pay in alongside you, it's invested for growth rather than earning bank interest, and you can't dip into it on a whim. Those constraints are the point — they're what turn small regular contributions into a meaningful balance over a working lifetime.

What to actually do with this

Being in KiwiSaver is the easy part. Getting value out of it comes down to two decisions: are you in the right fund type for your timeframe, and is your provider a good one on fees and service? If you've never checked, you're almost certainly in a default fund that nobody chose for your situation. Switching either is straightforward — here's how to switch.

Current as at 2026. General information only, not personalised financial advice.

Want to know what this means for you specifically?

We'll look at the whole market, tell you whether you're in the right fund and provider, and give you a written recommendation — free of charge.

Get a free KiwiSaver review

Got a more specific question? Browse the FAQs page.

Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Best KiwiSaver fund

What is the best KiwiSaver fund?

The honest answer is that there isn't one — but there is a best fund for you, and it's usually findable in about twenty minutes.

Short answer: there is no single best KiwiSaver fund, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling something. The fund that's right for a 25-year-old with forty working years ahead is the wrong fund for someone settling on a house in March. Get the fund type right first — that decision moves far more money than the provider does — then pick the provider on fees and how the scheme is actually run.

Why "best fund" is the wrong question

Search "best KiwiSaver fund" and you'll find league tables ranked by last year's return. They're the most misleading number in the whole conversation. A fund tops that table because it took more risk and the market went up — which tells you almost nothing about whether it suits you, and nothing at all about what it will do next year.

The three things that actually decide your balance at 65, roughly in order of how much they matter:

  1. Your fund type. Whether you're in a defensive, conservative, balanced, growth or aggressive fund. Over thirty years, this is the big one.
  2. Your contribution rate. Money you don't put in can't compound.
  3. Fees, and how well the manager actually runs the fund. Real, but smaller than most people think — and only worth optimising once the first two are right.

Notice that "which provider" isn't on that list on its own. Provider matters as the vehicle for the first three, not as a prize in itself.

Step one: get the fund type right

The only question that matters here is when do you need this money, and how would you cope if it fell?

If your money is needed…The fund type usually worth considering
Within about 2 years — a house deposit that's nearly there, retirement next yearDefensive or Conservative. A 20% fall right before you buy is not a theoretical risk; it's a cancelled purchase.
In 3–10 yearsConservative to Balanced, depending on how firm the date is.
In 10+ yearsGrowth or Aggressive — if, and only if, you'd sit still through a bad year rather than switching to cash at the bottom.

That last condition does a lot of work. The most expensive mistake in KiwiSaver isn't being in a growth fund; it's being in a growth fund, panicking during a fall, switching to conservative, and locking the loss in. If you know you'd do that, a balanced fund you can actually hold beats a growth fund you'd bail out of.

We go into more detail in our guide to conservative vs balanced vs growth funds, and in active vs passive management.

Step two: compare providers on the things that persist

Past returns are noisy. These aren't:

  • Total fees. Check the annual fund charge, expressed as a percentage, plus any flat membership fee. A flat fee of a few dollars a month is nearly irrelevant on a $200,000 balance and quite relevant on a $3,000 one.
  • What the fund actually holds. "Balanced" is not a regulated term. One provider's balanced fund can hold noticeably more shares than another's, which means the two aren't comparable even though the label is identical.
  • Long-run returns, after fees and tax. Ten years tells you something. One year tells you what the market did.
  • How the scheme behaved in bad years. Did the manager stick to the mandate, or drift?
  • Whether it matches what you care about. Some people want the cheapest index fund available; some want a responsible investment mandate they can live with. Both are legitimate.

Fees, past returns and risk indicators for every New Zealand KiwiSaver fund are published free on the Government's Smart Investor site (smartinvestor.sorted.org.nz). It's the primary source, and it's the one we work from.

The most likely answer: you're in a default fund and nobody has checked

If an employer auto-enrolled you and you never picked anything, you were put in a default fund — a balanced setting chosen for the statistically average New Zealander. It might happen to be right for you. Nobody has ever looked.

What we'd actually do for you

Twenty minutes on the phone, then we test every scheme on the market against what you told us, and send you a written recommendation naming a provider and a specific fund with the reasoning laid out. If your current scheme is already the right one, that's what the recommendation says. It costs you nothing either way — here's how we're paid.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

Want to know if you're in the right fund?

We'll check your current fund against the whole market and tell you straight if a change is worth it — free of charge.

Get a free fund check

More questions on this and every other part of KiwiSaver are answered on our FAQs page.

Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Fund types explained

Conservative vs balanced vs growth KiwiSaver funds

What the five fund types actually hold, who each one suits, and why the labels aren't as comparable between providers as they look.

Short answer: the five fund types differ in how much of your money sits in growth assets (shares and property) versus income assets (cash and bonds). More growth assets means higher expected long-run returns and bigger falls along the way. The right one is decided by when you need the money — not by what the market did last year.

The five types

Fund typeRoughly holdsUsually suits
DefensiveAlmost all cash and bonds; very little in sharesMoney needed within about two years.
ConservativeMostly income assets, a modest slice of sharesShort horizons, or people who would genuinely lose sleep over a falling balance.
BalancedRoughly an even split of growth and income assetsMedium horizons — and the setting most default funds land on.
GrowthMostly shares and propertyTen years or more to run, with the stomach for real falls.
AggressiveNearly all sharesLong horizons only. Biggest long-run potential, biggest drops.

The catch: "balanced" isn't a regulated word

Fund names describe an intention, not a standard. One provider's balanced fund might hold 50% growth assets; another's might hold 63%. Both are called balanced. Over decades that gap compounds into real money, and you'd never see it from the label.

The number to look for is the target growth asset allocation, which every fund publishes in its Product Disclosure Statement and its quarterly fund update. That's the comparable figure. The name isn't.

The risk indicator

Every KiwiSaver fund carries a risk indicator from 1 to 5, calculated the same way across the market. It's based on how much the fund's returns have bounced around over the past five years. Higher number, bigger swings — in both directions. It's a genuinely useful comparable, and it's on every fund update.

How to choose between them

Two questions, honestly answered:

  1. When will you touch this money? A first home in three years and retirement in thirty are completely different problems, even for the same person — and if you're doing both, the answer might be to split, or to stage the change as the house gets closer.
  2. What would you actually do if your balance dropped 20%? Not what you'd like to think you'd do. If the honest answer is "switch to something safer", then a growth fund will cost you money, because you'll sell at the bottom and buy back after the recovery.

The KiwiSaver Projection Calculator shows what each fund type does to a projected balance at 65. It's an illustration, not a forecast — but the gap between the fund types is the point.

Switching fund type is not the same as switching provider

You can usually change fund within your existing scheme in a few clicks, at no cost. Changing provider is a separate decision, and a separate process — see how to switch KiwiSaver providers.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

Want a straight answer about your own KiwiSaver?

Twenty minutes, whole of market, free of charge — and if you're already in the right place, we'll tell you that too.

Get a KiwiSaver recommendation

More questions on this and every other part of KiwiSaver are answered on our FAQs page.

Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Switching providers

How to switch KiwiSaver providers

What actually happens to your money, how long it takes, what it costs, and whether you should switch at all.

The process, start to finish

1. Choose your new provider and fund

This is the part worth spending real time on — comparing fees, fund type, and performance across the whole market rather than just moving to whatever your bank offers.

2. Apply directly with the new provider

You apply directly to the provider of the scheme you want to join. Most providers now do this online, and you'll usually just need your IRD number and a valid NZ ID, with the form taking less than 10 minutes to complete. (Inland Revenue)

3. Your new provider handles the rest

There's no need to contact your old provider — your new provider arranges the transfer of your savings directly with them, and notifies Inland Revenue so your future contributions are routed to the new scheme.

4. Wait for the balance to transfer

The process takes about two weeks, though some providers quote up to 2–3 weeks. You'll typically get a notification once it's done. (Inland Revenue, Simplicity)

5. Payroll carries on unchanged

Your employer keeps deducting as normal; Inland Revenue routes the money to whichever scheme you're currently in. Most people don't need to tell their employer anything at all.

Short answer: you apply to the new provider, and they handle the transfer. Your money stays inside KiwiSaver the whole time — it isn't withdrawn, it isn't taxed as income, and your payroll contributions keep flowing without interruption. It typically takes a few weeks, and providers don't charge a transfer fee. You can only be in one KiwiSaver scheme at a time, so joining the new one closes the old one automatically.

What it costs you

Providers don't charge an exit or transfer fee for moving your KiwiSaver. There's one cost that's easy to miss: while your money is being transferred it is briefly out of the market, so a switch during a sharp market move can help or hurt by a small amount. It's not a reason to avoid switching, and it's not something anyone can time.

Does switching lose me my government or employer contributions?

No. Your entitlements follow you. Employer contributions continue as long as you're contributing from your pay, and the government contribution is based on what you put in over the year, regardless of which scheme you were in when you put it in.

When switching is worth it

  • You're in a fund type that doesn't match your timeframe, and your current provider doesn't offer a good option in the type you need.
  • You're paying meaningfully more in fees for something you could get more cheaply, with no offsetting benefit.
  • The fund's actual holdings don't match what the name implies, or what you thought you'd signed up to.
  • You want a mandate your current scheme doesn't offer — a low-cost index approach, say, or a responsible investment fund.

When it isn't

  • Chasing last year's top performer. This is the single most common reason people switch and the single worst one. The table reshuffles.
  • You just need a different fund, not a different provider. Changing fund within your existing scheme is usually a few clicks and free. Check that first.
  • Someone at a bank told you to. A bank sells its own scheme. That's not a comparison.

We look at all of this before recommending anything — and when the answer is "stay where you are", that's what we say. It costs you nothing to find out.

Can I switch while buying a first home?

You can, but time it carefully. A transfer in the middle of a first home withdrawal can complicate the paperwork and the timing, and settlement dates don't wait. If a purchase is live, talk to someone before you move anything.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

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Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Contribution rates

KiwiSaver contribution rates in 2026

The default rate changed on 1 April 2026. Here's what you and your employer now pay, what your options are, and how to reduce it if the increase doesn't fit your budget.

Short answer: since 1 April 2026 the default KiwiSaver contribution rate is 3.5% of your before-tax pay, and your employer must match it at 3.5%. Both rise to 4% on 1 April 2028. You can choose 4%, 6%, 8% or 10% instead — or apply to Inland Revenue for a temporary rate reduction back to 3% for between three and twelve months.

What changed on 1 April 2026

Before 1 Apr 2026NowFrom 1 Apr 2028
Default employee rate3%3.5%4%
Employer minimum3%3.5%4%

If you were contributing at 3% and did nothing, your rate moved to 3.5% automatically through payroll, and your employer's matching contribution moved with it. If you were already contributing more than 3%, your own rate didn't change — but your employer's minimum still rose to 3.5%.

From 1 April 2026, 16- and 17-year-olds who meet the usual criteria also receive employer contributions.

Your options

You can contribute 3.5% (the default), 4%, 6%, 8% or 10% of your before-tax pay. Your employer must match you at the 3.5% minimum — but not above it, unless they choose to.

That last point is worth sitting with. Going from 3.5% to 10% triples what you put in, but your employer's contribution doesn't move. It's still very often the right call — it's your money compounding — just don't expect it to be matched.

If 3.5% doesn't fit your budget

You can apply to Inland Revenue through myIR for a temporary rate reduction back to 3%, for between three and twelve months. Your employer can choose to match the reduced rate. After twelve months your contributions reset to the default, and you can reapply as often as you need. It isn't available if you have an active savings suspension.

The floor you shouldn't go below

Whatever rate you pick, contribute at least enough to earn the full government contribution — that needs roughly $1,043 of your own money into KiwiSaver over the year, which earns you $260.72 back. It's the highest guaranteed return available to you anywhere, and it's the one thing in KiwiSaver worth optimising before anything else.

Self-employed or not earning?

There's no employer to match you and no payroll deduction, so contributions are voluntary. The government contribution still applies, so many self-employed people simply pay in about $1,043 across the year and stop there.

Does a higher rate beat a better fund?

Both matter, and they're not in competition. But if you can only change one thing this year, and you're a long way from retirement in a fund that doesn't suit your timeframe, the fund type is usually the bigger lever. Run both through the projection tool and see.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

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Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Government contribution

The KiwiSaver government contribution

Up to $260.72 a year of free money — who gets it, what you have to do to earn the full amount, and who no longer qualifies.

Short answer: the government pays 25 cents for every $1 you contribute, up to a maximum of $260.72 per KiwiSaver year (1 July to 30 June). To collect the full amount you need to put in about $1,043 of your own money over the year. You must be 16 or over, living mainly in New Zealand, and earning under $180,000 — above that, you get nothing.

How it works

It's a match, not a flat payment. Every dollar you contribute earns 25 cents from the government, and the meter stops at $260.72 for the year. Contribute $500 of your own money and you'll receive $125. Contribute $1,043 or more and you'll receive the full $260.72.

The KiwiSaver year runs 1 July to 30 June, not the tax year. The payment usually lands in your account a few weeks after the year ends.

Who qualifies

  • You're 16 or over and not yet eligible to withdraw your KiwiSaver.
  • You mainly live in New Zealand.
  • You earn under $180,000 a year. At or above that, no government contribution is paid.

It's pro-rated if you were only eligible for part of the year — for example, if you turned 16 or moved home partway through.

What changed recently

The maximum was halved in Budget 2025, from $521.43 to $260.72, and the $180,000 income cap was introduced at the same time. If you find an article quoting $521.43, it's out of date. 16- and 17-year-olds became eligible.

Do employer contributions count towards it?

No. Only your contributions count — from your pay, or paid in voluntarily. Employer contributions and previous government contributions don't.

What if I'm not earning enough to hit $1,043?

You can top up voluntarily, straight to your provider or through myIR, at any point before 30 June. If you're contributing 3.5% from your pay, you'll clear $1,043 automatically on a salary of about $30,000 or more. Below that — part-time work, a career break, self-employment, parental leave — it's worth doing the sum, because a voluntary top-up here earns a 25% return that exists nowhere else.

Self-employed, studying, or between jobs

You're still eligible as long as you meet the age and residency tests. There's no payroll deduction, so nothing goes in unless you put it in. A lot of self-employed people simply pay in $1,043 a year and treat the $260.72 as the whole point.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

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Home/KiwiSaver Guides/First home

Using KiwiSaver to buy your first home

How much you can take out, who qualifies, how long it takes — and the fund-type mistake that costs first home buyers the most.

Short answer: if you've been a KiwiSaver member for at least three years and you're buying your first home to live in, you can withdraw almost your entire balance — you must leave $1,000 in the account. There's no upper cap on the amount. You apply through your provider, not the government, and it takes time, so start early. The separate First Home Grant closed to new applications in May 2024.

Who can withdraw

  • You've been a KiwiSaver member for at least three years.
  • You're buying your first home in New Zealand, and you intend to live in it — not rent it out.
  • You haven't owned property before, unless you qualify as a "second chance" buyer, which can apply after a relationship split or a financial setback and involves a test of your financial position.

How much you can take

Almost all of it. You can withdraw your contributions, your employer's contributions, the government contributions and all the investment returns — you just have to leave $1,000 in the account. There's no maximum.

The mistake that costs first home buyers the most

This is the part most guides skip, and it's the reason we wrote this page.

If your deposit is coming out of KiwiSaver in eighteen months, and your KiwiSaver is sitting in a growth or aggressive fund, you are exposed to exactly the wrong risk at exactly the wrong time. A 20% fall over a long career is noise — you have decades to recover. A 20% fall six months before settlement is a smaller house, or no house.

As the purchase gets real, the fund type usually needs to move toward conservative or defensive. The gain you give up is small; the downside you remove is the whole purchase. Most people never make this change because nobody ever told them to.

If you're saving for a first home and retirement at once, some providers let you split your balance across funds — one setting for the money you need soon, another for the money you don't.

Timing — start earlier than you think

You apply through your KiwiSaver provider, and the money is usually paid to your solicitor's trust account. Give it at least a couple of weeks, and preferably more; you generally need the funds available when the agreement goes unconditional, and settlement dates don't move because paperwork is slow.

Don't switch providers in the middle of a live purchase if you can avoid it — a transfer and a withdrawal happening at once is how deadlines get missed.

What about the First Home Grant?

The First Home Grant (once called the HomeStart grant) closed to new applications on 22 May 2024 and hasn't been replaced with an equivalent cash grant. The KiwiSaver first home withdrawal is separate, and it's still very much available. The Kāinga Ora First Home Loan, which can allow a purchase with a 5% deposit, also still exists. Check kaingaora.govt.nz for the current criteria.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

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More questions on this and every other part of KiwiSaver are answered on our FAQs page.

Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver

How to withdraw your KiwiSaver

The five ways to access your KiwiSaver savings, what each one actually requires, and what you can and can't take out early.

Short answer: KiwiSaver is locked away until you turn 65 (and meet a five-year membership test), unless you fall into one of a small number of legally defined early-release categories: buying a first home, significant financial hardship, serious illness, permanent emigration, or death. Each has its own rules, its own evidence requirements, and its own limits on how much you can actually take.

1. Turning 65 (the standard route)

You can withdraw your full balance once you reach 65 and have been a KiwiSaver member for at least five years. For most people who joined before age 60, the five-year test is already satisfied well before they turn 65, so 65 is the effective date. If you joined after 60, the five-year clock can run past your 65th birthday — for example, joining at 62 generally means waiting until 67.

There's no requirement to withdraw anything at 65. Many people leave some or all of their balance invested and draw it down gradually, since KiwiSaver funds keep earning returns after you're eligible to withdraw. Government contributions stop at 65 regardless of whether you withdraw.

2. Buying a first home

After three years of membership, first home buyers can withdraw almost their entire balance (leaving $1,000 in the account) to buy a home they intend to live in. This is common enough, and different enough from the other categories, that we've written a separate full guide to the first home withdrawal.

3. Significant financial hardship

This is a legal test, not a feeling of being short on money. Your provider's supervisor has to be satisfied you genuinely can't meet minimum living costs, can't meet mortgage repayments on the home you live in, need to modify a home for a disability, or need to cover medical or funeral costs with no other reasonable option. Evidence is required, and a hardship withdrawal is generally treated as a last resort — providers typically expect you to have explored other support first, such as a savings suspension.

If approved, you can usually only access your own and your employer's contributions — the government contributions and the initial kick-start (where applicable) generally stay locked. The amount released is usually limited to what's needed to relieve the specific hardship, not your full balance.

4. Serious illness

If you or a dependant have a serious illness — broadly, a condition that significantly affects your ability to work, or a terminal or life-shortening condition — you may be able to withdraw some or all of your balance. This is assessed separately from a hardship withdrawal and has its own medical evidence requirements, generally involving your provider's supervisor and supporting documentation from a medical practitioner.

5. Permanent emigration

If you move overseas permanently and have been living outside New Zealand for at least a year, you can generally withdraw your KiwiSaver savings — this route is not available for a move to Australia, since Australia has its own reciprocal retirement savings arrangements. Requirements and the exact amount released can vary by provider, so it's worth confirming your specific position before you commit to anything.

What happens if I die before withdrawing?

Your KiwiSaver balance doesn't disappear and isn't kept by the government — it forms part of your estate and is distributed according to your will (or the intestacy rules if you don't have one).

Getting the process right

Every category above is applied for through your provider, not IRD, and each has its own form and evidence requirements. Getting the category and the paperwork right the first time avoids a lot of back-and-forth — particularly for hardship and serious illness withdrawals, where a supervisor is making a judgement call based on what you submit.

Reviewed 17 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules and thresholds change; check ird.govt.nz or your provider for the current settings.

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Home/KiwiSaver Guides/Default funds

Am I in a default KiwiSaver fund?

How to tell, what a default fund actually is, and whether being in one is a problem.

Short answer: if an employer auto-enrolled you into KiwiSaver and you never actively chose a fund, you were placed in a default fund — a balanced setting picked for the statistically average New Zealander, not for you. It might be fine. Nobody has ever checked. Your annual statement or your provider's app will tell you which fund you're in.

How to check in two minutes

  1. Log in to your KiwiSaver provider's app or website, or find your most recent annual statement.
  2. Look for the fund name. If it contains the word "Default", that's your answer.
  3. If you're not sure who your provider even is, log in to myIR — Inland Revenue knows which scheme you belong to.

What a default fund actually is

When KiwiSaver auto-enrols someone who doesn't pick a fund, they have to be put somewhere. Default funds are the government-appointed landing place: balanced settings, with fee caps and conditions attached, designed to be a reasonable middle answer for a person nobody knows anything about.

They're not a scam and they're not junk. They're a compromise, and the compromise is made on behalf of a person who isn't you.

When a default fund is genuinely wrong for you

  • You're young with decades to run. A balanced setting will very likely leave you with materially less at 65 than a growth setting you could have held comfortably the whole way through.
  • You're buying a house soon. A balanced fund can still fall, and a fall right before settlement comes straight out of your deposit. Something more defensive is usually the right answer.
  • You're close to retiring. The mix that suits a 30-year-old doesn't suit someone drawing down in three years.

When it's fine

If you're somewhere in the middle — a medium horizon, a moderate tolerance for a bad year — a default fund may be more or less where you'd have landed anyway. That's a real possibility, and if it's your situation we'll say so plainly rather than manufacture a reason to move you.

What to do about it

Two separate decisions, in this order:

  1. Fund type. Usually changeable within your existing scheme, in a few clicks, at no cost. This is the decision that moves the most money — see fund types explained.
  2. Provider. Only worth moving if fees, the fund range, or how the scheme is run genuinely don't suit — see how to switch.

Or just talk to us. Twenty minutes, whole of market, free of charge, and "you're already in the right place" is a perfectly acceptable outcome.

Reviewed 14 July 2026. General information only — not personalised financial advice. Rules change; check ird.govt.nz for the current settings.

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Home/FAQs/Is your KiwiSaver advice really free?

Is your KiwiSaver advice really free?

Yes, to you. We don't charge a fee and nothing is deducted from your balance for our advice. We're paid by the KiwiSaver provider you join. That's a conflict of interest, so we set it out plainly in our disclosure statement and manage it — our advisers aren't paid more for recommending one provider over another.

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Home/FAQs/What happens in the first conversation?

What happens in the first conversation?

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Home/FAQs/Will you just tell me to switch?

Will you just tell me to switch?

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Home/FAQs/What do you not advise on?

What do you not advise on?

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Home/FAQs/Am I committing to anything?

Am I committing to anything?

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Home/FAQs/What is KiwiSaver/What is KiwiSaver, in one sentence?

What is KiwiSaver, in one sentence?

It's a voluntary savings scheme that helps New Zealanders build up money for retirement, topped up by your employer and the government while you're working. You choose a provider and a fund, your contributions come out of your pay, and the money is invested until you reach 65 — or until you buy your first home.

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Home/FAQs/What is KiwiSaver/Who can join?

Who can join?

Anyone who lives in New Zealand and is entitled to be here permanently — from newborns to people already retired. If you start a new job as an employee you're usually enrolled automatically, with an eight-week window to opt out. If you're self-employed or not working, you join directly through a provider.

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Home/FAQs/What is KiwiSaver/Who puts money in?

Who puts money in?

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Home/FAQs/What is KiwiSaver/When can I get the money out?

When can I get the money out?

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Home/FAQs/Choosing the right fund/Which KiwiSaver fund has the best returns?

Which KiwiSaver fund has the best returns?

Whichever one took the most risk during a rising market — usually an aggressive fund. That tells you very little about the future. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance, and last year's top fund is often not the right fund for your timeframe.

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Home/FAQs/Choosing the right fund/Is a growth fund better than a balanced fund?

Is a growth fund better than a balanced fund?

Not inherently. A growth fund has higher long-run potential and bigger falls along the way. It is better if you have ten or more years to run and would genuinely hold through a bad year. If a fall would push you to switch to cash, a balanced fund you can hold is the better outcome.

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Home/FAQs/Choosing the right fund/Do lower fees mean a better KiwiSaver fund?

Do lower fees mean a better KiwiSaver fund?

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Home/FAQs/Choosing the right fund/How often should I review my KiwiSaver fund?

How often should I review my KiwiSaver fund?

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Home/FAQs/Fund types: conservative, balanced, growth/What's the difference between a balanced and a growth KiwiSaver fund?

What's the difference between a balanced and a growth KiwiSaver fund?

A balanced fund holds roughly an even split of growth assets (shares, property) and income assets (cash, bonds). A growth fund holds mostly growth assets. The growth fund has higher expected long-run returns and larger falls in bad years.

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Home/FAQs/Fund types: conservative, balanced, growth/Is a conservative fund safe?

Is a conservative fund safe?

Safer, not safe. Conservative funds hold mostly bonds and cash, so they move less — but they can still fall, and over long periods they carry a different risk: not growing enough to keep up with inflation.

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Home/FAQs/Fund types: conservative, balanced, growth/Should I be in an aggressive KiwiSaver fund?

Should I be in an aggressive KiwiSaver fund?

Only with a long horizon and the temperament to hold through a bad year. Aggressive funds are nearly all shares, so a 30% fall is a normal event, not an emergency. If that would push you to switch, it's the wrong fund.

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Home/FAQs/Fund types: conservative, balanced, growth/Can I be in more than one KiwiSaver fund?

Can I be in more than one KiwiSaver fund?

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Home/FAQs/Active vs passive management/Is passive or active better for KiwiSaver?

Is passive or active better for KiwiSaver?

For most people a low-cost index approach is the sensible default, because fees are the only variable you can predict and most active managers do not beat their benchmark over long periods. Active management can still make sense if chosen deliberately, but the odds are against it.

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Home/FAQs/Active vs passive management/Do active KiwiSaver funds beat index funds?

Do active KiwiSaver funds beat index funds?

Usually not, over long periods. SPIVA data for 2025 found 74% of actively managed global equity funds in New Zealand underperformed the S&P World Index, and over 10- and 15-year horizons all of them did. Some managers do outperform; the difficulty is identifying them in advance.

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Home/FAQs/Active vs passive management/How much do KiwiSaver fees actually matter?

How much do KiwiSaver fees actually matter?

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Home/FAQs/Active vs passive management/Are index KiwiSaver funds really passive?

Are index KiwiSaver funds really passive?

Not entirely. Someone still chooses which index to track, how much to hold in shares versus bonds, how much currency exposure to hedge, and what to exclude. Those are active decisions, and the asset allocation one matters more than the indexing question.

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Home/FAQs/Active vs passive management/Does active management make more sense in the New Zealand market?

Does active management make more sense in the New Zealand market?

It is the strongest version of the argument. The New Zealand market is small and less heavily analysed than global large-cap markets, so there is more scope for a manager to find something others have missed. The evidence is still mixed.

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Home/FAQs/Contribution rates/What is the KiwiSaver contribution rate in 2026?

What is the KiwiSaver contribution rate in 2026?

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Home/FAQs/Contribution rates/Can I still contribute 3% to KiwiSaver?

Can I still contribute 3% to KiwiSaver?

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Home/FAQs/Contribution rates/How much should I contribute to KiwiSaver?

How much should I contribute to KiwiSaver?

At a minimum, enough to earn the full government contribution — roughly $1,043 of your own money over the year. Beyond that, the right rate depends on your other goals; higher rates are not matched by your employer above the 3.5% minimum.

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Home/FAQs/Contribution rates/Does my employer match whatever I contribute?

Does my employer match whatever I contribute?

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Home/FAQs/The government contribution/How much is the KiwiSaver government contribution?

How much is the KiwiSaver government contribution?

Up to $260.72 per year. The government pays 25 cents for every $1 you contribute, so you need to contribute about $1,043 of your own money over the KiwiSaver year to receive the full amount.

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Current as at 2026. General information only, not personalised financial advice.

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Home/FAQs/The government contribution/Who is not eligible for the government contribution?

Who is not eligible for the government contribution?

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Home/FAQs/The government contribution/When is the government contribution paid?

When is the government contribution paid?

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Home/FAQs/The government contribution/Do employer contributions count towards the government contribution?

Do employer contributions count towards the government contribution?

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Home/FAQs/Switching KiwiSaver providers/How long does it take to switch KiwiSaver providers?

How long does it take to switch KiwiSaver providers?

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Home/FAQs/Switching KiwiSaver providers/Does it cost anything to switch KiwiSaver providers?

Does it cost anything to switch KiwiSaver providers?

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Home/FAQs/Switching KiwiSaver providers/Do I need to tell my employer if I switch KiwiSaver?

Do I need to tell my employer if I switch KiwiSaver?

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Home/FAQs/Switching KiwiSaver providers/Can I be in two KiwiSaver schemes at once?

Can I be in two KiwiSaver schemes at once?

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Home/FAQs/Switching KiwiSaver providers/Will I lose my employer or government contributions if I switch?

Will I lose my employer or government contributions if I switch?

No. Employer contributions continue as long as you keep contributing from your pay, and the government contribution is based on what you contributed over the year regardless of which scheme held it.

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Home/FAQs/Buying a first home/How long do I have to be in KiwiSaver before I can buy a first home?

How long do I have to be in KiwiSaver before I can buy a first home?

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Home/FAQs/Buying a first home/How much of my KiwiSaver can I use for a first home?

How much of my KiwiSaver can I use for a first home?

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Home/FAQs/Buying a first home/Can I use KiwiSaver to buy an investment property?

Can I use KiwiSaver to buy an investment property?

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Home/FAQs/Buying a first home/Is the First Home Grant still available?

Is the First Home Grant still available?

No. The First Home Grant closed to new applications on 22 May 2024 and has not been replaced with a direct equivalent. The KiwiSaver first home withdrawal and the Kāinga Ora First Home Loan are separate and still available.

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Home/FAQs/Buying a first home/Should I change my KiwiSaver fund before buying a first home?

Should I change my KiwiSaver fund before buying a first home?

Usually yes, as the purchase gets close. A growth or aggressive fund can fall sharply in a bad year, and a fall shortly before settlement directly reduces your deposit. Moving toward a conservative or defensive fund removes that risk.

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Home/FAQs/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver/When can I withdraw my KiwiSaver?

When can I withdraw my KiwiSaver?

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Home/FAQs/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver/Can I withdraw KiwiSaver for financial hardship?

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver for financial hardship?

Yes, but only in defined circumstances — being unable to meet minimum living costs or mortgage repayments, needing to modify a home for a disability, or covering medical or funeral costs with no other option. Your provider's supervisor decides based on evidence you provide, and it's generally treated as a last resort. If approved, you typically only get access to your own and your employer's contributions, not the government contributions.

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Home/FAQs/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver/Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I'm seriously ill?

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I'm seriously ill?

Yes, if you or a dependant meet the legal definition of serious illness — broadly, a condition that significantly affects your ability to work, or a terminal or life-shortening condition. This is assessed separately from a hardship withdrawal, with its own supervisor process and medical evidence requirements.

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Home/FAQs/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver/Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I move overseas permanently?

Can I withdraw KiwiSaver if I move overseas permanently?

Generally yes, once you've been living overseas permanently for at least a year — with one notable exception: this route isn't available if you've moved to Australia, since Australia has its own reciprocal retirement savings arrangements. Requirements can vary by provider, so it's worth confirming your specific situation before relying on it.

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Home/FAQs/Withdrawing your KiwiSaver/What happens to my KiwiSaver if I die?

What happens to my KiwiSaver if I die?

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Home/FAQs/Default funds/How do I know if I'm in a default KiwiSaver fund?

How do I know if I'm in a default KiwiSaver fund?

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Home/FAQs/Default funds/Is a default KiwiSaver fund bad?

Is a default KiwiSaver fund bad?

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Home/FAQs/Default funds/Can I change out of a default fund?

Can I change out of a default fund?

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Home/FAQs/Default funds/What happens if I never choose a KiwiSaver fund?

What happens if I never choose a KiwiSaver fund?

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